The spread of Covid-19 shocked the tourism sector (including ecotourism) on a global scale. From March, we have been forced to cancel all our international tours which, from this year, should have included, in addition to Spain and Greece, also Ecuador and Thailand. For the same reason, many of the nature weekends we had planned were also canceled.
After resuming the day trips we finally managed to return to carry out multi-day routes starting from August.
In the last week of the month we were in fact engaged in private tours in Abruzzo during which we accompanied Andrea, Mattia, Luisa and little Robin to discover the biodiversity of the area.
The mountains of this region, as many in Italy and Europe, have been literally invaded by tourists during this particular summer at least. Obviously for us, lovers of naturalistic observation, the crowd of tourists is not an event that particularly fascinates us.
Nevertheless, it is known that many of these people hardly go far from the inhabited centers, therefore, by moving a little it is still possible to enjoy, at least in part, the tranquility that characterizes these places.
Not even the time to get to know the group that Robin (very skilled in looking for snakes, but we will tell you about this later) tells us that in the hotel garden he has already met one of those species that he had identified as a target for our trip: a beautiful specimen of Smooth Snake (Coronella austriaca)… unelievable!
We leave in the direction of the National Park of Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise towards Civitella Alfedena but, once we reach the village, finding it very crowded, we decide to change plans.
Heading west of the village we take one of the paths we prefer starting to tell about the Park, its glorious history and, in particular, its fauna. No particular sighting characterizes the afternoon which ends at dusk with the observation of a large number of numerous families of Wild Boars (Sus scrofa).
Back at the base, this time in the village of Pescocostanzo, after a tasty dinner, we return to the hotel. The alarm clock is already set well before dawn.
The second day, reached the park before the rising of the sun, begins with the observation of a good number of Red Deers (Cervus elaphus). The group then splits up, with Mattia taking part in an excursion in Val di Rose with the official guides of the Park and the rest of the group focusing on the active search for mammals, hoping, in such a crowded moment, in a bit of luck.
A few minutes later we meet a Fox (Vulpes vulpes) basking in the first rays of the sun regardless of our presence. The little mistrust of mankind therefore gives us the opportunity to talk about an extremely harmful phenomenon that is very common in the area: wildlife approaching humans. A few steps away, a male of Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio) watches us wary.
We say goodbye to the Fox leave in search of its “elder cousin”. Unfortunately, the first observation stops do not give the desired results although we are sure to be at the right point at the right time. Well, not really at the right time …
Near a drinking trough we meet a group of French tourists who, like us, are looking for wild animals. After a few minutes of pleasant chat, they tell us that just a few tens of minutes before we passed, two wolves had crossed the road and stopped to observe them a few meters away. It is really true that you often need that extra bit of luck!
We continue to enjoy our exploration until we find ourselves with Mattia who, during the trek in Val di Rose, managed to observe Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus) and Apennine Chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata).
We then return to Pescocostanzo where a well-deserved dinner and an equally deserved sleep await us in view of the next early rising.
On the third day, as always, we get up before dawn but this time we do not head towards the PNALM but towards the Cinque Miglia plateau starting from which we will take a path that, after crossing a suggestive gorge immersed in a beech forest, will take us at higher altitudes.
The first interesting sighting is a Hare (Lepus sp.) which, with the proverbial speed, runs away to hide, not giving us the possibility to verify if it is the rarest Italian hare or, more likely, European hare.
Continuing, with the beech forest that gives way to an area mainly characterized by conifers, we meet the first Coal Tits (Periparus ater) and, continuing towards the pasture, the Yellowhammers (Emberiza citrinella).
Having indicated to Robin the best area to look for reptiles, we then stop and observe the birdlife: Tree Pipits (Anthus trivialis), Winchats (Saxicola rubetra), Red-backed Shrikes and House Martins are the masters taking advantage of the numerous insects, while several Common Buzzards (Buteo buteo) alternate in the early morning thermals. Robin only takes a few minutes to find his first Italian Three-toed Skink (Chalcides chalcides)!
Returning to the beech forest we listen to the classic bark of a Roe Deer (Capreoleus capreoleous) and we find two signs of the presence of the Marsican Brown Bear: a tree on which there are the characteristic scratches and another on which the researchers of the protected area have applied barb wire with the aim of attracting the bear for a pleasant scratch, in exchange for some hair to leave that will allow studies on the distribution of the species and on the genetics of the specimens.
Once we reach the car, we then move towards the village of Rivisondoli where, after having lunch, we say goodbye to Andrea and Mattia. What a pleasure to have had travel companions like them, passionate about nature and, despite their young age, experienced travelers. We hope to see them again soon in the future!
The adventure does not end here for us as, in the next 24 hours, we will devote ourselves to the search for Reptiles and Amphibians with Luisa and Robin.
The itinerary was planned precisely to meet the needs of Robin who at the age of 9, have faith, we are not exaggerating, he is an expert in herpetofauna like few others!
We spend the afternoon exploring the slopes of the Majella mountain massif in search of frogs, salamanders, lizards and snakes. After having spotted numerous Common Wall Lizards (Podarcis muralis) and Western Green Lizards (Lacerta bilineata) we stop to observe a small rodent (probably Apodemus sp.), not at all frightened by our presence, struggling in search of food among the roots of the trees.
The day on the field ends with Robin who discovers a young Whip Snake (Hierophis viridiflavus) under a stone which, unfortunately, quickly hides away not allowing us even a single shot. Before returning to the base a last stop during which we find a shed of colubrid and observe Red kites (Milvus milvus) and a good passage of European Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster).
Usual, delicious, dinner and usual eary return to recover strength for the last day of exploration.
It begins before dawn (those who think that early rising are useful only for observing warm-blooded animals is better to change their mind!), as we want to get to areas characterized by dry stone walls and stony ground before the snakes begin their morning basking activity.
At the first light of day the Lizards awaken (both Podarcis siculus and P. muralis) and an adult Whip Snake quickly crosses the grassland. Immediately the temperature rises terribly (the around 30 degrees that will characterize the day are a truly unusual event for the end of September at these altitudes) and after a quick survey in an area of the gorge where we hope, in vain, to find some refreshment and conditions more suitable for reptile research, we move to the beech forest to focus instead on amphibians.
However, the gorge offers us the observation of a large group of Red-billed Choughs (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax).
Once in the beech forest we head to a drinking trough where we usually observe, during the reproductive period, many species of urodeleans and anurans. Near it, after a few minutes, we find an Agile frog (Rana dalmatina), to which we dedicate a few minutes while two Honey Buzzards (Pernis apivorus) fly above us.
We then move to the stream where we find numerous, and wonderful, new metamorphosed Fire Salamander (Salamandra salamandra) and tadpoles and young of Italian Stream Frog (Rana italica).
A very tasty focaccia for lunch and, before finally concluding the tour, a last jump into the stony ground with the hope of adding a new species to the checklist. No ophidians, but Green Lizards and Mantis, very numerous, still let us enjoy the last moments before the departure.
Then comes the time to say goodbye in which we once again congratulate Robin (and Luisa for having raised a son so prepared by supporting him in his love for zoology) wishing him again a bright future as a herpetologist. We are sure our paths will cross again!
On such crowded days, and characterized by such high temperatures, unfortunately it was not always possible to contact each target species but we are still satisfied with the observations and, in particular, to have shared three days in nature with such an interested and interesting group of participants.
We will be back in Abruzzo very soon for our autumn tours, looking for the rutting Deers in the amazing frame of fall colours.
CHECKLIST
AMPHIBIANS:
- Fire Salamander (Salamandra salamandra)
- Italian Stream Frog (Rana italica)
- Agile Frog (Rana dalmatina)
REPTILES:
- Western Green Lizard (Lacerta bilineata)
- Italian Wall Lizard (Podarcis siculus)
- Common Wall Lizard (Podarcis muralis)
- Italian Three-toed Skink (Chalcides chalcides)
- Smooth Snake (Coronella austriaca)
- Green Whip Snake (Hierophis viridiflavus)
BIRDS:
- Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)
- European Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus)
- Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)
- Red Kite (Milvus milvus)
- Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)
- European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus)
- Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus)
- Feral Pigeon (Columba livia var. domestica)
- Wood Pigeon (Columba palumbus)
- European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster)
- Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica)
- Common House Martin (Delichon urbicum)
- Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis)
- White Wigtail (Motacilla alba)
- European Robin (Erithacus rubecula)
- Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus)
- Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros)
- Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra)
- Stonechat (Saxicola torquatus)
- Common Blackbird (Turdus merula)
- Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala)
- Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita)
- Eurasian Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes)
- Great Tit (Parus major)
- Coal Tit (Periparus ater)
- Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus)
- Long-tailed Tit (Agithalos caudatus)
- Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea)
- Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio)
- Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica)
- Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius)
- Red-billed Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)
- Hooded Crow (Corvus cornix)
- Italian Sparrow (Passer italiae)
- Common Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs)
- European Goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis)
- Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella)
- Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus)
MAMMALS:
- Apodemus sp.
- Lepus sp.
- Wild Boar (Sus scrofa)
- Roe Deer (Capreoleus europaeus)
- Red Deer (Cervus elaphus)
- Apennine Chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata)
- Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes)